Custom water cooling system - questions and answers

Question and answer: here I have collected all the beginner’s questions that arose during the first assembly of a custom SVO! Hope it helps someone!

What is better: to make one common circuit with a video card and processor or two separate ones?

In terms of the influence of temperatures on the coolant, it is better to have one common circuit. Since under any load conditions, after half an hour to an hour, the temperature at the outlet from the heat-generating electronics and at the outlet after the radiators is no more than half a degree. Two different circuits are used in several cases where the flow capacity is not sufficient and the flow resistance in the system is high.

To relieve one circuit, several closed systems are made. But it is recommended to use a circuit with two pumps in one system, since in real load at maximum all devices rarely operate, the load is variable. And the device that is hotter at this moment will receive better heat dissipation, because in total more radiators work for it.

Several separate circuits are also used when consumers have different heating stability. As an example: a video card can operate stably up to 60 degrees on the chip, a processor can work up to 90 with strong overclocking. Which in turn can raise the temperature of the liquid to 45-50 degrees (with a weak air cooler) and up to 40 (with a normally designed air cooler).

In the same general circuit, you can put an SSD or optan with high temperatures for stable operation of about 90 degrees on chips. And components such as RAM and HDD are very sensitive to temperature. As an example, DDR4 3733 MHz CL 14-14-14-28 memory, at 1,48 they already lose stability at 51 degrees. Considering that the water temperature reaches 45 degrees and can itself warm up the memory, which also generates heat, it is worth taking these points into account when extreme overclocking of RAM. It is advisable to organize separate cooling for this - air or water.

Which tubes are better - rigid or flexible?

A lot depends on your ambitions. For those who don’t want to “sweat” and want to spend quite a budget, we can recommend flexible ones. Looks better with PrimoChill coating. They have a longer service life than conventional ones and do not become cloudy for longer.

If you want something beautiful and richer, then there is more choice among solid pipes. There are plastic Acrylic or PETG, they differ slightly in the nuances of molding; a regular construction hair dryer and accessories are used. But they are also not durable, the liquid in such tubes “wears out” faster, can become cloudy, and are fragile when dismantled.

Next comes luxury materials. Firstly, these are brass tubes, which can be painted and quite expensive tools are used to form them (their walls are thin, which can look harmonious in compact assemblies without losing the efficiency of coolant flow). And secondly, borosilicate glass tubes, which are formed using a gas burner. The last two should be chosen when you strive for the ideal and are ready to spend money on it. Since there are very few glass molding specialists left, it is easier to buy a blank with one elbow and connect two elbows from two parts than to mold two or three elbows from one blank. Borosilicate glass and brass can withstand very strong pressure changes, and the glass is still completely inert.

What diameter is the best tube to choose?

If you take a technical point of view and think about efficiency, then it is better to look at a larger internal diameter. This will create fewer flow obstructions in the system. In the case of flexible tubing, thicker walls will prevent the hose from creating a kink and obstructing or stopping the flow in the system. Well, you need to think about the length and how to lay this hose to avoid unpleasant kinks. The consequences can be different - from stopping the flow and non-functioning of cooling, to a breakthrough in a weak spot, most often at the point of attachment of the hose to the fitting.

From an aesthetic point of view, sometimes thinner tubes look more harmonious.

What material should I look at for water blocks for video cards and processors: copper, nickel-plated copper, silver?

In my opinion, the best option is copper. It is cheaper and more efficient than nickel-plated copper.

Silver dissipates heat better than copper (due to better thermal conductivity) when the system is properly configured by 10%, but the price is 2-3 times higher. Also, dissolved silver ions have biocidal properties, while silver is inert enough not to pollute the system in the presence of copper radiators.

I don't see the point in nickel-plated copper at all. It was created so that when there are different metals in the system (like copper and aluminum), galvanic processes in the form of oxidation and rust do not occur. In simple terms, it is justified to use it with aluminum radiators. You just need to buy such a water block from a good manufacturer, and not a non-name one from AliExpress, otherwise such a coating will quickly peel off and ruin the entire system. Moreover, the difference in price for a similar water block made of copper or nickel-plated copper can be up to 30%

Which radiator is better - copper or aluminum?

The price difference between them is from 10 to 20%. Aluminum is used most often in disposable, maintenance-free AIO systems that are thrown away after a year or two. Therefore, the manufacturer strives to save on absolutely everything that is possible or not, and in terms of efficiency it is similar to supercoolers, which are also cheaper.

By paying a little extra for copper radiators, you can cheaper buy a more efficient copper water block for both the video card and the processor. Therefore, in the end, the money will be +/- the same, but the efficiency will be higher. And at the same time there will be no problems with galvanic reactions, and you will have to change the fluid less often.

If you take a thicker radiator, will it be cool and cold?

Yes, if you meet several conditions. Firstly, radiators from 45 mm have almost ideal flow resistance, which means that with the same pump you will get greater performance, but you will need much more coolant (which is sometimes quite expensive). For this radiator to be effective, there needs to be strong airflow through it. As a result, stronger fan speeds are needed. If the thickness is more than 45 mm (50 mm and above), then fans are needed on both sides: on one side for blowing in, on the other for blowing out. Then you can fully realize the potential of thicker radiators.

What else interesting things do you need to know about radiators?

Nowadays they are trying to think through radiators better and optimize them for different air flows. For example, there are thin lamellas; they are well suited for low-speed fans, for people who prefer silence. Thicker radiators require more airflow.

Based on experience and tests, we can judge that in most cases, the thinner the radiator, the better it removes heat, but the more it reduces the speed of water flow. The thicker the radiator, the more efficient the fans, which must spin at high speeds.

In my system, the flow rate is 155 liters per hour, which is enough to pump 4 radiators 30 mm thick (11 sections). At the same time, water blocks work as efficiently as possible. As a conclusion, there is no point at all in a radiator thicker than 45 mm.

Which coolant is better to take - pastel or transparent, or maybe dielectric?

If you are a beginner, and there is no device to check whether the system holds pressure, and doubt gnaws inside, then it is better to buy a dielectric one. On the plus side, in the event of a breakthrough, nothing will burn. The downside is that the liquid is only transparent and colorless. It is also subject to wear and tear and after six months loses its dielectric properties. But in principle, if there is no breakthrough at the launch stage or within a month, then it has fulfilled its function and the system is reliable.

What can we say about pastel? The composition of such a liquid contains suspended solid particles, as well as anti-caking agents - so that sediment does not fall out and a homogeneous mass is maintained. In any case, the fluid wears out, and it is not uncommon for these particles to precipitate. Therefore, the wear of such fluids is higher, and they need to be changed more often. On the plus side, they look stunning and very beautiful! Of the pastels, the brand concentrate is considered the most trouble-free mayhems. And if you consider that among liquids, especially popular brands, there are many fakes, then it is better to take them directly from the manufacturer’s website, even if it ends up being 2 times more expensive. Or don’t forget to take it along with other components when ordering in these stores.

If you want a less capricious liquid, you can buy transparent coolant.

Can I use fans from my old computer?

They can be used, but in the vast majority of cases they have weak air pressure, and they are optimized in such a way that they have the maximum declared efficiency of air pressure when installing fans away from the radiator at 20 mm. This is the most important parameter for radiator purging.

If you attach fans close to the radiator, its efficiency will drop significantly in relation to the rated values. Therefore, after studying the characteristics of your fan, you can think about one adapted to the air cooler.

The Corsair ML 140 PRO is considered a worthy option. It is one of the few that provides good performance at different fan speeds. While the vast majority of other fan models are practically useless at low speeds and produce the declared characteristics only at the maximum fan operating value.

Therefore, it is very important to watch tests on the entire fan speed range! Since they are usually left to work at 600-1000 rpm! And they are set at maximum speed to ventilate the radiators, as happens in modern laptops. There is a program that programs this function to briefly turn on the fan when the system starts in order to knock fine dust off the radiator.

Do I need to buy a separate fan control board?

If you are planning a budget build of the SVO, then you can easily get by with a motherboard. Just look at the maximum current load that can be supplied to the motherboard.

If the motherboard is designed very well, then the fans will have minimal impact.

If you are assembling a system with a large number of fans, and also planning extreme overclocking, then my answer is definitely yes! A standalone, well-designed board will allow you to connect many more fans than you would on a motherboard.

Fans also contain electric motors that cause interference in the system, especially during startup (as they create the effect of inrush current in the system). When connected directly to the motherboard, this interference goes to it, and then to other components; RAM is most susceptible to this influence. If the fans are placed on a separate control board, then the noise passes through the power supply, which dampens it much better than the motherboard can do. So, if you have the funds, then this fee will definitely not be superfluous. Plus, this usually comes with high-quality Windows software for controlling fan speed.

If you can install two radiators in the case: 120 mm 4 sections or 140 mm 3 sections. What to choose?

Here you can calculate the effective dispersion area. In the first case, 120x480=57600, in the second, 140x420=58800. As you can see, the option with a 140 mm radiator is more efficient and cheaper. Since a radiator with 3 sections will be cheaper, and you will need 2 fewer fans! Therefore, we are definitely looking for cases with the ability to install 140 mm fan radiators!

What do you need to permanently overclock a video card?

Depends on the heat output of the graphics chip and video memory. As practice has shown, if the total consumption of the overclocked video card does not exceed 350 W, then a flow rate of 150 liters per hour is sufficient, which can be provided by any D5 pump, the maximum capacity of which is 180 liters. (In my system, it produces 155 liters per hour at maximum power.) It is advisable to look at more modern and proven water blocks. A capacity of more than 150 liters does not make a noticeable difference. A radiator with 3-4 140 mm sections for a video card is enough. If the consumption of the overclocked video card goes beyond 450 W, which is what current owners of Nvidia 3080 and 3090 cards have encountered, then such heat is much more difficult to remove, and the flow rate should be at least 260 liters per hour, which can be provided by 2 series-connected pumps.

It is also worth taking a closer look at a more efficient thermal interface. One of the best is Thermalright odyssey, thermal pads and thermal paste. There are some nuances to applying with thermal paste, so it is not recommended for beginners.

You can also pay attention to thermal grizzly kryonaut. But they are more often counterfeit and give worse results compared to the local MX-4. And despite their excellent characteristics, they do not always provide a noticeable gain compared to the same MX4 (sometimes within the margin of error), and the price is much higher. And in some cases, the gain reaches 12 degrees when replacing the standard thermal interface.

Finally, we have thought through what we want. We read the reviews and found out approximate prices. And we ask ourselves:

Where is the best place to buy components for water cooling?

Everyone has their own answer. If you wish, you can buy from the manufacturer, fortunately they have a web page with an online store. But the largest of them is the German retailer https://www.aquatuning.de/. All suppliers who work with him try to fill their store first, and then theirs, prices are slightly higher. But if you take everything from them, and not from different sites, you will save on delivery, which in the end may be cheaper!

Next, we go directly to the manufacturers: there are https://aquacomputer.de/. It’s best to buy control boards from them and a unique electronically controlled D5 Next pump. Program updates after two years of use are paid, but no one has done it better, in my opinion.

The best fittings (their chrome is considered eternal and will never come off) are considered https://shop.bitspower.com/. You can also negotiate in this store so that the invoice is included with a smaller amount, and the payment is divided into 2 parts: one to show to the customs officers, the other is an additional payment upon the fact. This way you can save on VAT.

There are also now stores where you can pay with Bitcoin. In this case, the law will not allow you to charge VAT and duties when the parcel enters the country (in the EU - exactly, according to the laws of your country - check).

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ - a confident middle peasant, where you can assemble a complete set without unnecessary problems.

https://shop.watercool.de/ - another good manufacturer of top-end cooling.

In these stores you definitely don’t have to be afraid of counterfeits and the service is at a high level.

Links will be replenished based on your recommendations.

Finally, we waited for the moment when everything we needed arrived!

What surprises might you encounter?

I picked up the radiator - there is some sand inside, what should I do?

The vast majority of radiators are made by welding. Because of this, various fragments remain inside the radiator. For reasons of cost savings, no one washes them thoroughly. The maximum that is possible is pressure quality control. Therefore, be sure to rinse the radiators very thoroughly before installation. After the inside has dried and you are not planning to use it soon, insulate the inside of the radiator from dust.

Plastic hard tubes break or do not want to fit into the fittings, what should I do?

Cutting the tube to the required size and trying to install them into fittings can lead to breakage, since they fit into the grooves very poorly. Therefore, first it is better to make chamfers both outside, for better installation, and inside, so that plastic hairs do not get into the system.

If after this the tubes do not fit into the fittings, you need to make sure that the outer diameter of the tubes matches the inner diameter of the fittings. If all is selected correctly, but it fits very tightly with a high risk of breakage, then you can use lubricant. I use a cotton swab with a little spray of WD-40 on it and apply a thin, barely noticeable layer to the end of the tube and to the rubber seal in the fitting. WD-40 was created in such a way that it does not decompose rubber and plastic parts (attention, you must first familiarize yourself with which plastic materials WD-40 is best not to use), has cleaning properties, and also has light lubricating properties. If you have applied a lot of lubricating fluid, then the excess must be removed so that it does not float in the system.

Solid tubes in fittings dangle dangerously

All manufacturers have different clearance tolerances; the cheaper the fittings, the higher the likelihood that these clearances are not met. I have heard frequent complaints about EK fittings. But from personal experience I have not seen any circuit breakouts, although they talk about it. But such fittings also have advantages in the form of greater opportunity to tilt the tube at an angle at the attachment point in order to get into the next fitting with a lower-quality tube molding. Therefore, if you have chosen the correct diameters of pipes and fittings, there should be no problems.

When is it better to lay the cables - before or after assembling the SVO?

The bulk of the design and installation work is best done after you have installed all the components, but before installing the piping and commissioning the system. After the complete installation of the system, you can only make small touches, otherwise you will curse everything in the world. Next, if, in your opinion, the case is missing something for cable management, then you can use accessories. This can be a thermoplastic braid: several cables are connected together and singed with a lighter. Then it will shrink to the diameter of the wires and will look like one solid piece. Hooks on double-sided tape will also help so that the wires on the walls of the case sit and do not dangle. Well, and a lot more. I watch them here https://www.aquatuning.de/modding/. Links will be replenished based on your recommendations.

What is the best way to organize the ventilation system in the building?

First of all, it depends on which case you have chosen and what capabilities it provides.

Secondly, fans allwhen should blow on the radiator in case of one-sided installation. Or on one side - for blowing, and on the other - for blowing when mounted on a radiator on both sides.

Are the fans in relation to the case - blowing in or blowing out of the case?

Fans that are located on top body wall - all the time for blowing into the external environment.

If fans without radiators are mounted on the rear wall of the case and in system no devices with their own fan, for example, an air-cooled processor or a video card with similar cooling, it is better to direct them to draw air from the external environment.

If the system has, say, an air-cooled video card, then the fan on the rear wall is definitely for exhaust, since the video card generates a lot of heat, which needs to be removed outside the case.

Fans on the bottom of the case. Here you need to look at the situation. If without a radiator, then it’s definitely for air intake from outside to inside. If with a radiator, then you need to look at whether the case will be open or closed. In the case of an open case, fans are used to blow air out of the case; in the case of a closed case, you need to understand whether the air intake into the case is well organized, and, based on this, make your decision.

Front wall. Ideally, there should be no radiators on the front wall, since fans that draw air from outside are needed to cool secondary components on the motherboard, hard drives, SSDs and RAM (direct fans can also be installed on RAM). If your case is quite compact and it is not possible to organize air intake into the case by other means (if the case is closed), then in the front part the fans blow into the case. It is also worth considering that the heating or cooling of the motherboard’s VRM zone strongly depends on this factor, which also affects the stability of the system. If the temperature of your BRM zone under stress load does not exceed 55 degrees, then the front fans can be set to exhaust. If temperatures are higher, then only use blowing, regardless of whether there is a radiator on the front side of the case or not. As an example: at a liquid temperature of 45-50 degrees, and the BRM zone is 55 degrees, most likely the air will additionally heat this BRM. If the water temperature is 40 degrees, and the BRM is 70-90, as is the case in the vast majority of cases, then warm air from the front radiator will cool the BRM area (in systems with air cooling of the VRM zone). Similar solutions apply to RAM strips.

If desired, you can always calculate the theoretical volume of air that enters the case and leaves the case beyond its boundaries, using the technical characteristics of the fans. But in practice, you can only try to get closer to this, since often poorly designed cases for the sake of beauty become an obstacle to obtaining real factory results.

It is also worth considering the air flow resistance of radiators, mountings for radiators, filters and, of course, dust that will accumulate on the filter, radiators and fan blades over time. Therefore, a wise decision would be to conduct experiments and see the real results of the cooling system.

I would also like to add that fans do not always operate at full speed, and their efficiency does not change linearly with rotation speed. Further: it is a fairly common occurrence that when the fans are started at full speed, the air blows in the opposite direction, as it encounters an obstacle and unnecessary turbulence occurs! If you want to exclude this, you will have to modify the mountings of the radiator housing exactly to your dimensions. Since mounts and housings are made primarily for the sake of versatility, not efficiency, not to mention the refinements of appearance, for the sake of which absolutely unacceptable things are sacrificed! Here I want to say that the walls of the buildings are made with poor ventilation (or to be more precise, they are tightly closed!), and when installing these walls, the temperature of the system increases by an unacceptable 10 degrees in almost all cases!.. (In my case, the stumbling block is the front part of the case, closed with glass, instead of a well-ventilated grille with dust filter, which will definitely need to be modified!..)

Important note: Ideally, there should be at least 20 mm of free space in front of the fans for air intake, then the fan will create the air flow necessary for the radiator with maximum efficiency.

 

 

And then the moment came when we collected our baby. They checked everything 10 times, but, as it turned out, this is not the end...

How to add coolant without damaging the pump?

According to the specification, the pump operates at dry is strictly prohibited. Therefore, the question arises: how can you add liquid to the system so as not to damage the pump, including computer components, by a hard shutdown? To do this, we will need to disconnect the 24-pin power cable of the motherboard. And put a jumper 24 Pin Power Supply Jump Start Connector on this wire. It usually comes included with more expensive motherboards. But if it so happens that this is not included in the kit, then you can buy it separately.

As soon as we de-energized the motherboard by pulling out the wire and putting this jumper on it, we have the opportunity to turn off and turn on the connected peripherals using the on/off toggle switch. on the power supply.

Fill the reservoir with liquid, turn on the power supply, you will immediately see that the pump starts working and begins to distill liquid. As soon as the liquid reaches the bottom, immediately press the switch off. Add fluid to the reservoir and repeat the procedure until the system is completely filled. Only after the circuit is full and you have not found any leaks anywhere can you connect the 24-pin wire to the motherboard. When doing this procedure, it is advisable to place moisture-absorbing paper napkins on the electronic components, this will make it easier to see where the drips are and will not quietly burn your expensive components.

I poured coolant into the reservoir, turned on the pump, but the coolant did not pump through. What could be wrong?

First of all, you need to check if the pump is working? Put your hand on it: when the pump is working properly, there should be vibration. If there is vibration, we remember how we assembled it, was everything assembled correctly? If you don't remember, you can try to disassemble the reservoir with the pump and see what might be in the way. If everything was assembled correctly or you reassembled it correctly, but the liquid is still not pumped into the circuit, then the next question arises.

What the hell!? — "Siphon effect"

The idea is that if the reservoir is small and located below the upper radiator where the water should flow, then the coolant does not have enough water column pressure to push against the air in the system, even with the pump running. In this case The following solutions help:

At the highest point of the circuit, you need to unscrew the hose or plug on the radiator to remove the increased air pressure. Since when filling the tank there are two ends (the inlet and outlet of the liquid are in water), you get air trapped in the system, which is difficult for the liquid to push through. In 90% of cases this is enough. If this does not help, then you need to create additional pressure on the liquid in the tank or on the air by vacuum.

To put it simply, you need to change it to a higher tank or suck out the air in the place where we unscrewed the plug. As soon as the water reaches the top position and begins to pull the water at the bottom of the system, the pump will pump the liquid without difficulty. Naturally, all the plugs need to be closed as soon as we see that the pump can handle it so that nothing spills out of them (or return the hose that was unscrewed to its place). It is also useful to unscrew the plugs at the top of the system, in problem areas, to bleed air in air pockets!

We filled the system with coolant and checked that there were no leaks anywhere. We connected the motherboard to power, press start and...

What again?! Why doesn't it start? - "Cable"

This means that the power supply is protected due to incorrectly connected cables. If you didn’t skimp on the power supply, it will turn on the protection system, and if you skimped, an incorrectly connected device will burn out or, in the best case, the cable will catch fire, and you will feel the delight of the smell of burnt wiring. If you want to buy beautiful custom cables, then before purchasing you need to check whether they are suitable for your power supply, since manufacturers often make different pinouts. I encountered this when I tried to use Seasonic cables for a Corsair power supply. As it turned out, they have different pinouts and are not compatible! Therefore, if you do not have the opportunity to find out what pinout is used on custom cables, then it is better to purchase extension cords for standard ones! You should also check the connections of other cables that may be installed incorrectly. For example, USB 2.0.

Do I need to flush the system with distilled water before using special coolant?

Despite the fact that we washed everything separately, there is still a need for additional washing of everything. We fill it with distilled water and run it through the system for a couple of days. We drain it, fill it with distilled water a second time and let it run for at least a day. Drain and then fill with special coolant.

I have an acrylic water block for my video card. I see a sediment of an unknown color on the cooling fins of the chip. What could it be?

In the vast majority of cases, this is ordinary dust that remains in the radiators. Since assembling the system and starting it up for the first time takes a lot of time, and the openings were not closed or sufficiently insulated, this dust gets inside. Therefore, you will need to drain the water, dismantle the video card and the processor water block (usually it accumulates on the edges of the VK water block and acts as a kind of filter, and the CPU most often does not reach the water block, but it is better to double-check), disassemble and clean it, as this will affect thermal conductivity and speed flow. We collect and refill with distilled water to clean the system.

Can I use distilled water for cooling and save on purchasing a special coolant?

Absolutely not! Distilled water is considered a strong solvent; if it is not replaced with a special liquid intended for cooling within 2 weeks, galvanic reactions will begin in the system! And it’s good if you can fix it, but if not, then many system components will need to be replaced!

What else would you like to do?

If the tank does not have an excess pressure relief valve, then it is better to leave it open for the first week. This is necessary so that bubbles that stick to the walls come out of the system (usually we can see them on the walls of the tank or acrylic surfaces), and also air bags that interfere with cooling are squeezed out. Give the system a good shake several times a day so that any accumulated bubbles come off the surface and come out of the reservoir freely. If you are afraid that the coolant will splash out during shaking, then first close the reservoir, then open it to release excess air pressure.

After that, we close the system and rejoice for at least a year until it’s time to service it. Congratulations, you did it all!

As you use SVO, the following unhealthy problems may arise:

I have a precipitate: why, what should I do?

If you have used pastel coolant and have not changed it for more than a year, then the components in this liquid have worn out, this liquid needs to be urgently changed and the system cleaned.

This can also be the cause of a long period of non-use of the computer, when suspended particles have simply settled. Another reason for the precipitation of new pastel coolant may be non-compliance with technological standards in production, even if it is the original. In this case, it is quite possible that you bought a fake.

If this happens with a clear liquid, subject to use for more than a year, then it also urgently needs to be replaced. If precipitation occurs in a clear liquid during the first month of use, then you have a counterfeit product. It urgently needs to be drained, the system cleaned and the original refilled.

There is foam in the system, is this normal?

Foam is definitely not normal. The coolant contains antifoaming agents. If this happens after a year, then the fluid needs to be replaced urgently, as it has exhausted its resource. If this happens after a month or six months, then you have a fake or defective liquid that was produced in violation of technological processes in production.

 

So, you've been enjoying high performance and extreme overclocking for a long time. Everything was fine, but the time inevitably comes when you need to service the system or modify the computer.

When is the best time to change the coolant?

Usually the manufacturer writes on the packaging how much of its liquid can be guaranteed to be used without damaging the system. But in reality, several factors influence the lifespan of this liquid:

Working temperature: The higher the operating temperature, the lower the service life. Typically, the guaranteed service life implies that it does not exceed 40 degrees. If the operating temperature is higher, the service life is reduced.

Presence of different metals in the system: The coolant contains components that prevent the formation of various chemical reactions. If there are any, they will also shorten the life of the coolant.

When there is already rust or stains: when there is already damage in the system, then, naturally, the additives in the liquid have to intensively neutralize this, which also reduces its service life.

When the system is dirty: in fact, the coolant already contains components that block the proliferation of bacteria and fungi. But if for some reason you brought them there or didn’t wash them properly, when it’s time to service the system, then these microorganisms remain in the system. As a result, inhibitors work worse and wear out faster. Since they are aimed at suppressing reproduction, and not eliminating it.

Are there devices that measure coolant quality?

At the moment, I know of only one device that measures the electrical conductivity of a liquid and, based on these results, provides data on the quality of the coolant. If the electrical conductivity of the liquid increases, then the additives in the liquid already work worse. This means that a lot of everything has already dissolved in the liquid and the necessary chemical reactions for neutralization have occurred. The device is called Aqua Computer high flow NEXT. It does not show the results very accurately, but in principle it is enough to know what condition the coolant is in. It also shows the flow rate or pump performance with temperature.

But you can do without it by writing with a black marker on the black surface of the tank so that the date of replacement of this fluid can be seen from a certain angle, based on the manufacturer’s recommendations.

How to properly drain coolant?

It is advisable to place the tap from which the liquid will drain at the lowest point. This must be taken into account when designing your system. We stretch or screw the hose onto the tap and the lower end should be below the level of your computer. At the highest point, unscrew the air intake plug. Then you will drain as much liquid as possible. And then, depending on the situation, tilt the body in the required directions and drain the residue.

How to remove hard tubes correctly?

For these purposes, it is advisable to have gloves with a tenacious surface, then less effort will need to be applied to remove the tubes, which in turn reduces their damage. Well, you won’t cut your fingers when unscrewing the fittings, since the edges can be sharp. Remove carefully using circular and rocking movements. It is better to place moisture-absorbing paper napkins on all electronic components and have a small basin nearby so that you can quickly replace them. With flexible all it is much easier: unscrew it, put it away.

Is it possible to vacuum dust on electronic components?

This absolutely should not be done, despite the fact that many people neglect this advice and nothing happens. It is best to use compressed air cylinders to remove dust.

What else needs to be done to make the system last long?

It is advisable to remove all water blocks and disassemble them. When you disassemble them, you will need to wash them and clean them of the oxide film. If it is copper or silver, then use lemon juice and a hard toothbrush, which cleans very well between the ribs of the water block. If it is nickel-plated copper, then it is better not to do anything mechanically with it, just rinse it.

We washed it, reassembled everything, what next? There is a suspicion that the system is not as clean as it was when it was new. What else can you do?

Yes, this is a fairly common question, since sometimes people forget when they filled the liquid, and this led to the formation of mold or a colony of bacteria in the system. If you noticed this too late and did not replace the fluid on time, then there are special additives that are added to the flushing fluid (distilled water), such as bactericidal or antifungal.

Strictly follow the instructions given by the additive manufacturer.

Sometimes they cannot be combined or mixed with additives from other manufacturers! If you are lucky and the product helps, then you can pour in regular distilled water to wash off the remaining additives. And then change it to a special coolant. If you are unlucky, it is better to replace the affected system components.

If for some reason you are not sure that you will succeed, then it is better to trust the professionals!!!